Neighbors occasionally ask our customers about the professional lawn-care services on their property. Below are the answers to some of the questions you may have about professional lawn care.
How often does Lawn-A-Mat visit during the growing season?
Depending on the services selected, we visit each lawn every 30 working days, seven to eight times during the growing season. We spot-treat weeds when they are still immature and growing, using less amount of product over the entire season.
How will I be informed when Lawn-A-Mat visits our neighbors?
NYS Posting Flags are placed at all of the open entranceways, as well as all open perimeter areas, when control products are used. Fertilizer applications (no pesticides) are not posted.
What kind of application methods does Lawn-A-Mat use?
We use spot-application, fast drying, low-volume methods - not entire-lawn "hose-style" or "blanket-style" methods employed by most other companies.
Most of our applications are for weed control, which normally dries within 3 minutes, allowing for quick resue of the lawn area. In wet weather we use a material that "sticks" the product to the weeds, reducing any unwanted movement.
Our application equipment allows us to apply within inches of the target weeds, allowing us to work during mild windy conditions and along bed edges. We use spot-application, fast-drying, low-volume methods, not the entire-lawn "hose-style" or "blanket-style" methods employed by most other companies.
What kind of fertilizer does Lawn-A-Mat use?
We always apply our fertilizers without any other products (weed/insect/crabgrass/grub control products) mixed/bonded with them. Our fertilizers are always granular and contain no phosphates unless we're seeding at the time.
We offer an environmentally friendly upgrade that melts quickly into the lawn area, bonding with your soil to greatly reduce any unwanted movement over a 3-4 month feeding period.
Remember, healthy, thriving lawns enhance one's home and contribute to the environment by:
- reducing weed seed and pollen moving off the property
- absorbing many airborne pollutants; like dust or soot.
- filtering contaminants from rainwater's
- reducing soil erosion
If you must rake - remember, you’re not raking up layers of leaves (at least I hope not - if so, you’ve got bigger problems, so don’t use the rake that way. The handle end of the rake should be in the palm of your hand, straight over the rake head - not at a 45 degree angle, as when you’re raking leaves.
Gentle tease the off color grass in a lifting motion - the grass will thank you and so will your arms and back!
When I was growing up, everyone rolled their lawn - the bigger, the heavier, the better. Some filled the roller with water, some gravel - and some concrete! People were damaging the grass through compaction, pushing the oxygen away from the roots. Grass became stressed and thinned out during the summer. More weeds and crabgrass came in - more products bought and used, along with spot seeding each year, without even thinking about why they had these problems. Must be poor soil, or the lawn products - or GRUBS!
Yes, it was a “pest problem”- the two legged kind! PEOPLE - YOUR LAWN IS AERATED EVRY YEAR FOR FREE - IT’S CALLED FROST HEAVE - WHY ARE YOU RE-COMPACTING IT? Go figure...
Speaking of which - why are you core aerating or “power thatching(raking) it?
Power raking does unbelievable damage that under normal weather conditions won’t get a decent repair until the fall.
Did you know there is absolutely no benefit gained from spring aerating, except maybe to get warmer air down to the root zone in a thatch/sod lawn condition, so it’ll green up a little sooner? If thatch is your problem, then address the thatch condition - thatch, in time, can really degrade the condition of your lawn.
Don’t fall for: let’s get oxygen down to the root zone in a normal spring clay soil - let alone a sandy one!
Core aerating a wet /cold clay soil in spring causes “glazing” that actually prevents oxygen from getting to the surrounding roots. Be a smart consumer - this is not rocket science, it’s common sense!
In simple words, fertilizer breaks down to only two words - soluble and insoluble nitrogen (WSN or WIN). The amount of each is listed on the label on the bag. Soluble means water soluble - this makes the fertilizer much less expensive and also lets you know it will leach in rainfall, moving either off site and/or beneath the grass root zone, reducing its benefits. Insoluble (WIN = water insoluble) will be higher priced - but far more cost effective as it does not leach nor move beneath the root zone as quickly - also known as slow release.
How much do you need? Easy: divide the first number of the three (ie:25-15-10 - use the “25”) into 100, that will tell you how many pounds OF THAT MATERIAL you need per thousand square feet - in the above example 100 / 25 = 4 pounds/thousand - multiply “4” by the number of thousand square feet - 10,000 sq. ft. lawn area x 4 = 40 lbs. to do the entire lawn, at the correct rate, per application OF THIS FERTILIZER - and you’ve got it. This not only will help you get the right amount down but will let you figure out if that sale price is really a great deal for YOU, rather than the store!
A few little tips: size of lawn can be determined from your tax bill or just go online and put in your address.
Organic versus whatever - the grass/weeds couldn’t care less - YOU may - they don’t. Want the best environmental value AND best price? Switch to slow release fertilizers. Read the label; WIN not WSN - reduced leaching, reduced surge growth, longer “feeding”, less chance of turf damage, less concern if you’re near a water way................ It’s not only your call - it’s under your control.
FYI - We’ve used slow release products for over 50 years - they’re nothing new!
Contact Us For A Lawn Analysis Today!