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After This Winter Our Lawns Need a Little TLC

Before
After

Before and After: an average lawn before raking in spring compared to your June lawn after a good raking each spring!

  • Go easy on your raking. Brown/matted down grass is usually good grass, just “asleep” (dormant – but check for snow mold), and will being growing when soil temperatures reach above 50 degrees.

  • Remove all sand/gravel pushed up on the lawn from winter plowing.

  • Use a push broom or leaf blower – NEVER a leaf or garden rake.

  • Don’t rake/remove any brown/dead grass (see above).

  • If you must rake use a lifting - not a dragging - motion. This will avoid ripping out the dormant grass and be less stressful on your arms and back. Take your time or use a leaf blower to “fluff up” the “glued-down grass tips."  The off-colored grass tips will be removed by simply mowing them at your lawn mowers highest setting about mid April.

  • Your first 2 or 3 mowings should remove most, if not all the discoloration, and the matted down grass will be pushed up by your new spring growth.

  • Don’t be in a hurry – not all grass types start regrowing at the same time! Strong grass regrowth usually occurs between 4/21 - 5/10 of each year.

  • Do begin mowing when the first areas of your lawn reach 4 inches. The rest will catch up over the next few weeks. Mow at the highest setting and don’t wait till the whole lawn “needs” mowing - you will shock/harm the grass plants.

  • Spot seeding (including those dreaded brown spots) at this time will give questionable results at best, PLUS make you into a slave watering these areas for the next five months!

  • Do start your watering around May 1st to all the areas you wish to have a nice lawn appearance, even if it’s still green. If you can see your foot prints or wheel marks when mowing - WATER!

  • If areas of bright brown or yellowish/brown spots appear mid May - mid June you've mowed too low when the grass was too high, wet or before the heat of the day. Don't water - grass should return to normal growth when soil temps go down early September (still check for surface insects, such as chinchbugs ASAP).

  • Homeowners should not use weed controls before May. Only use liquid - not granular - weed control products. Never use grub or crabgrass controls unless you had proven history of these problems last season - and then only treat those areas, not the entire lawn. Never use combination products like: weed/feed, fertilizer/crabgrass, fertilizer/grub control etc. They may seem to save time but they’re very expensive, and don't effectively treat both problems AND force pest controls in areas you DON’T NEED THEM!

  • Lawn care products do have their place in our environment, but there are common sense steps that should be taken. First identify the “pest," determine the area(s) needing treatment, lifecycle and threshold density of the target organism, what control product to use, and what precautions to observe BEFORE, during and after treatment.

  • Remember - applying controls only where needed saves money/time and reduces exposure!

Get control of your lawn.

Start by giving us a call or contact us through the web, and after an initial lawn analysis we'll develop a plan of action to address some of those re-occurring lawn problems.

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With over 50 years of experience, Gerry, Syracuse's Grass Guru knows Central New York lawn conditions like the back ofhis hand. Contact Us below or Call (315) 682-1002.

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